Sunday, December 19, 2010

Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana



First we had to drive back to Zambia to pick up our damaged trailer. Zambia isn’t the most luxurious country in Africa.  We crossed into Zambia through Chriundu.  Zambia is the scam capital of the world. Beggars, con men and crooked officials on every corner. Every Zambian’s dream is to move to Haiti for a better life style.




 Zambia has more ferries than San Francisco (pun intended). I was getting tired of waiting for them to make repairs. It seems there is always something broken.

We passed through customs in 3 hours. Then we pushed on to Chipata.
We stopped to buy vegetables. Pepi went into the market while I guarded the car. A girl approached me and said “ Would you like to have sex with me?” I said how much? She said 50,000.00 Kwacha! WHAT!! Are you crazy? I’ll call the police. I’ll call your mother. Get the hell out of here. She left. Then I realized the exchange rate was over 5,000.00 to 1. She wanted about $9.35 USD.

Hey have you seen a girl about this tall hanging around here? No huh. I wonder where she ran off. Oh well, off to the bush.

During the evening four elephants raided our campsite. The female, a famous elephant (seen entering the lobby of a nearby hotel, walking down the hallway and entering the back courtyard to eat fruit from a tree and snatch a few treats from peoples plates in the restaurant along the way is her specialty.)

She headed for our tent right off. I ran to the tent. She put her head down as though she would push me aside. I stood my ground. She sniffed me with her trunk, sniffed the tent, then the car and then walked away. Close but no cigar!


The problem with South Luangwa Park is the TETSE flies. They drive you crazy. They carry a disease known as sleeping sickness it is mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm OH! Sorry I dozed off for a minute. It is really nasty. I think my yard boy has it. I catch him dozing off quite often. Anyway they are a pest.

Crossing into Botswana from Zambia is always full of surprises. We went to all the windows. Paid this stamp, that toll, that fee, etc, etc. We were just about finished when the customs officer said “Interpol wants to talk to you!” Interpol? I thought, I’ve finally made it to the big time. I’m going to be right up there with Charles Taylor, Radovan Karadzic, crimes against humanity, genocide, shit what do I do now. A little voice whispered in my ear “LIE”, it always works. That’s it I’ll just deny everything. I never had sexual relations with that women! (she wouldn’t take a credit card). OK! I did smoke a marijuana cigarette when I was in school but I didn’t inhale! I didn’t know she was 14. She looked almost 15 to me! 

Well maybe he’s not even in his office. I knocked lightly. A voice said “come in!”. Shit !!

I thought, just my luck. A big black Interpol officer said “where’s your vehicle clearance certificate?”

I said, my what? I never heard of one. He said, “if you don’t produce it you will have to wait 2 or 3 days until we check your car out to be sure it’s not stolen. 2 or 3 days!!! That little voice screamed, “Start lying”. I said listen, do I look like the kind on person that would steal a car (and get caught)? I support all kinds of black organizations. Why I belong to the ANC (African national congress), NAACP (national association for the advancement of colored people), the NFL (national football league), NBA (national basketball league, and MAD (mothers against drunk driving). I figured there must be a black mother somewhere that supports that.

I could see his eyes tearing. It might be the smoke in the room or maybe I was getting through to him. I said, give me a break. I’m a senior citizen and my girlfriend will be a senior citizen in 25 or 30 years. He said OK, OK, sign here but next time bring that document or you’ll be stuck here until your vehicle is cleared. I said OK! I took his pen and signed on the dotted line. Take this copy and give it to the guard. I said OK, and thanks a million. We headed for the door when I heard him yell WAIT! Where’s my pen? I said OH! Here it is, sorry about that. Damn, that was a nice pen. I lost mine in the bush a couple of days back. We left.

We drove into Botswana. This is a beautiful country. There is never a problem with customs. Polite people, plenty of animals, what a delight. We spent four nights in the Kalahari. Now that place is HOT in the summer. 100 to 130 degrees F. 




 
Everything was in the shade. Lions, Bat eared Foxes, Jackals, birds and me. Fortunately the nights are beautiful. Cool, clear and pretty. The sunsets are magnificent.



We did manage to find this den full of Bat Eared Foxes and their pups. We spent hours watching them hunt and play. The animals were plentiful in spite of the heat.
Plenty of Giraffes and other plains game. The heat causes some animals to be much more bold than they normally would be. Vegetation was minimal forcing some animals to find food where ever they could. This Steinbuck approached us within minutes and never left our camp site.

Some friends from Germany followed us into the Klaahari and camped out with us for a night.



After 3 nights we decided to head for The Khama Wildlife refuge. We needed to escape the heat. Khama was great. The rains had fallen in that area and all the babies were being born at the same time. It was great to see all the young calves running around and jumping in the air just showing off their newly learned acrobatics.





The Rhino were all over. Marking and patroling their  territory.


This old bull had fought many a fight. He was not intimidated by me at all.


This Impala was just trying to take it easy. The Oxpeckers took full advantage of this. Tearing out mouthfuls of hair to line their nests.The Impala finally took off into thick cover to escape the ever-pecking birds.





This wildebeast let us approach within feet of him. The cover was thick enough to make them feel as though they could disappear in a second.

We reached home 5,000 KM later. When we got home we learned we inherited a couple of African Pygmy Door Mice. They were just days old. They are very cute, but----they eat every two hours, 24 hours a day!!! Poor Pepi!
Next trip Namibia.





















 

 


 























Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Kruger National Park, South Africa

Much has been written about KNP. I have read it is tourism at its most vulgar! I suppose it is, and many other things as well but, there are few places in Africa you will see more game and more diversity than Kruger National Park. The bird life is incredible.  This Ground Hornbill is a good example of the exotic bird species seen in the park. They are true predators. This one has a chameleon in his mouth 
 This youngster has eaten another bird!! They are quite amazing. The big five is what most newcomers to the park want to see.
 
Lions
                                                                        
Leopard
Rhino
Elephant 
Buffalo
Many other big game species can be found in the park right along the side of the road. This park never disappoints. 
Hippos are one of the most dangerous animals in Africa. 
Unpredictable and bad tempered. Their life is spent defending territory and young, mainly from each other. They will charge without warning. This one is displaying his dominance over others that may be wondering if it is worth a fight.
This Hyena pup was all eyes as she was wondering what we were all about.
These wildebeest have something else on their minds. They were fighting right next to our vehicle and paid us no mind.
This one paid the ultimate price. He was completely eaten in a matter of hours.
This is a White Rhino shortly after his mud bath. It was the rutting season and he was displaying that characteristic stance and bellowing for a mate.
This little guy had lunch on his mind. He wasn’t going to take his eyes off of us. Even though they are never hunted, the Hyena is a very wary creature. 
More hunter than scavenger, they will never turn down a chance at a meal. Even if it belongs to their mortal enemies the Lions!
Kruger has something for everyone. Don’t miss it on your next trip to Africa.

Sunday, October 17, 2010

Khutse Game Reserve Botswana

Khutse is one of my most favorite places on earth. It is LION country. We have photographed countless lion activity in Khutse along with Leopard, Caracal and Wild cat. Khutse requires an overnight in Gaborone, the capital of Botswana. Then it's 4 hours of driving narrow tar roads and sand tracks. It isn't fun but well worth the effort.




This male lion was stalking another lion just for fun. The pride consists of 2 males, 4 females and 6 cubs.






The front entrance of the reserve.






The stare in his eyes tells the whole story.


The cubs are a blast to watch. They never stop playing. Constantly stalking and attacking each other in mock combat. They are practising for the day they will become providers for the pride.



This Leopard needs to keep his eyes open. Lions kill them on sight.



 This male caught the scent of a female in season.



No entry means ---NO ENTRY!



You can walk in Khutse, but you need to do it carefully. A lion can disappear in a foot of grass or appear right in front of your face without making a sound.



Kudu are one of the most majestic antelope in Africa. Big, bold and beautiful. It's always a treat when one of these guys steps into the view finder of your camera.

The park is full of Giraffe. It is not unusual to see 20 or more at one time in one place. The waterhole is a great place to sit in the late afternoon. Take care and I'll post more later on.

Zambia Trip

Well it was a rough trip. We drove 14 hours from South Africa to Chobe National Park in Botswana. From there we crossed the river by ferry into Zambia. Chaos would describe the border crossing. It took us almost 2 hours to clear immigration and customs.
That's us in the Toyota Land Cruiser towing the trailer. The guy in front needed some help. No problem, there was plenty of it around.


We did beat the smugglers over, probably because their boats were much harder to paddle laden down with products to avoid the heavy Zambia duty. 




Then it was 14 hours to a small town just west of Chipata. We stayed at the luxurious ZULU KRAAL CAMP GROUNDS. Thank god we arrived after dark and couldn’t see anything. The photos are self-explanatory. 

Chinese toilet with a touch of Africa. No extra charge!

Our hot water tank!
  At least the wiring was done to code.


 We arrived in South Luangua the next afternoon. 





First stop, the market place. Friendly people. Nice selection of produce. Just like any modern supermarket you would find at the end of a dirt road in sub Sahara Africa.





After some haggling we found enough fruit and vegetables to keep us fed throughout our stay at the park.
 

We set up camp then headed for the park first thing in the morning.

It was less than we expected but interesting. Plenty of lions, birds, hippos and elephants plus a multitude of plains game.



 We were charged by an elephant that didn’t like the fact that  I couldn’t find reverse in my SUV fast enough. 



Never wake a sleeping HIPPO!

They are very fast and not the most even tempered animals in the bush.
Then we learned we broke our trailer axle on the way to the camp.



Well no problem. We will just drive back to Jo’berg a short three days of 14 hours each day and buy a new one.

We took a short cut to save a few hours. NEVER TAKE A SHORT CUT IN AFRICA!


This was what the road looked like for 6 hours of driving at 20 MPH
 After telling my young friend all about it he had that look of skepticism  on his face.




I don’t blame him. I can’t believe it myself.

Next trip Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe! Wish us luck.